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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” says the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.